Thattekad: finding birds in Kerala's lowland forest

Thattekad is not a zoo and it is not a park with a loop road. It is a small protected area of lowland evergreen forest on the Periyar river, east of Kochi, and it exists in the popular imagination almost entirely because of birds. The sanctuary is named after Salim Ali, the ornithologist who surveyed it and argued for its protection; it was established in the early 1980s.

The forest is tall, dense and humid, with a canopy that closes over the trails. That makes the birding different from the open wetlands of Kumarakom: you listen more than you look, and a good guide is the difference between a pleasant walk and a morning of real sightings.

What lives here

The sanctuary's checklist runs to hundreds of species, including hornbills, barbets, bulbuls, flycatchers, sunbirds and several birds whose ranges are restricted to the Western Ghats. The Malabar grey hornbill is a common and noisy presence; frogmouths and nightjars reward dusk and dawn; the river and the forest edge add kingfishers, waders and raptors. Serious birders come for the endemic and near-endemic species, but a first-time visitor can have a very good morning with the common birds alone.

Do not expect mammals. There are elephants and other large animals in the wider landscape, but sightings are rare and the sanctuary is not sold as a safari. Treat the forest as a birding destination and you will not be disappointed.

How a visit works

Access is usually through the forest department gate, with a guide and a permit, and walking is the main activity. Some guides offer night walks or early-morning walks outside the core hours; these are worth asking about, but they should be arranged through official channels rather than a random fixer at the bus stop. The trails are not long, and the pace is slow.

• Carry binoculars if you have them; a guide will usually have a scope.
• Wear muted colours, walk quietly and avoid strong insect repellent with a heavy scent.
• Do not use playback to pull birds out of cover, and do not feed them.
• Leeches are common in the wet months; long trousers and closed shoes help.
• Keep to the trail. The forest is dense and it is easy to lose the path.

When to go

The cooler, drier months after the southwest monsoon are the most comfortable and usually the best for bird activity. The monsoon itself is dramatic and green, but trails are muddy, leeches are active and photography is difficult. Early morning is always the best window, whatever the season; the middle of the day is quiet and hot.

Thattekad is close enough to Kochi for a day trip, but staying nearby for a night gives you two dawns and a much better chance of seeing the forest wake up. There are homestays and small resorts around the sanctuary, but the village itself is ordinary and quiet, which is part of the appeal.