Mattancherry's spice streets: a market walk

Mattancherry is the older commercial half of Kochi, separated from Fort Kochi by a few hundred metres of road and a considerable difference in atmosphere. Fort Kochi faces the sea and the tourists; Mattancherry faces the warehouses. The spice trade made this quarter wealthy long before the Portuguese arrived, and it is still possible to smell pepper, ginger and cardamom in the air on a damp morning.

The historic centre is compact: Bazaar Road runs through it, Jew Town branches off towards the Paradesi Synagogue, and the Dutch Palace sits at the northern edge. You can walk the whole thing in an afternoon, but the point is to linger in the shops and lanes rather than tick off the monuments.

What is actually traded

Kerala's spice trade was built on pepper, cardamom, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and cloves, and Mattancherry was one of the ports through which they moved. Today the wholesale trade is more dispersed, but the quarter still has pepper and ginger merchants, tea and coffee traders, and shops selling essential oils and Ayurvedic ingredients. Some warehouses have been converted into retail spaces; others remain closed to the public, with sacks stacked behind iron gates.

This is not a farmers' market. Prices are set for a mixture of local buyers and visitors, and the first quote is rarely the final one. Buy small quantities, ask to smell and taste before committing, and be sceptical of any spice sold with a medical promise. Whole spices keep their aroma far longer than ground ones, and a vacuum-sealed packet travels better than a paper bag.

• Pepper: smell for a sharp, clean hit, not just heat. Whole peppercorns should be uniform and free of dust.
• Cardamom: green pods should be tight and fragrant; loose seeds lose their oils quickly.
• Ginger: fresh root is a different product from dried ginger; ask which one you are being sold.
• Turmeric: colour is not a guide to quality, and bright yellow powder can be adulterated.
• Essential oils: buy from a shop that can tell you the botanical name and dilution.

Jew Town and the synagogue

Jew Town takes its name from the Jewish community that settled in Kochi and built the Paradesi Synagogue in 1568. The synagogue is still in use and is one of the few active synagogues in India; its interior, with hand-painted Chinese tiles and hanging glass lamps, is remarkable. It is also a place of worship, with opening hours that change for the Sabbath and festivals, and photography restrictions that are enforced. Check before you go and dress modestly.

The lane outside has become a tourist market selling antiques, textiles, carvings and souvenirs. Some of it is genuine, some of it is reproduction, and the difference is not always obvious. If you are buying an antique, ask about provenance and export rules; Indian law restricts the export of certain antiquities, and a shop's assurance is not a permit.

The Dutch Palace

The Mattancherry Palace, usually called the Dutch Palace, was built by the Portuguese in the mid-sixteenth century and given to the Raja of Kochi; the Dutch later renovated it. Its main draw is a set of murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other texts, painted in a flat, richly coloured style. The palace is a museum now, with modest displays and a peaceful courtyard. It is small enough to see properly in under an hour.

Eating in the quarter

Mattancherry has a strong food culture that is not aimed at visitors: Kerala breakfasts, biryani, fish fry and tea shops that have been doing the same thing for decades. The area also has a long Gujarati and Marwari trading presence, which shows in the sweets and vegetarian restaurants. Eat where the local traders eat, and go early for the best of it.