A slow week in the backwaters: the five-day version

Most backwater itineraries try to cover Alappuzha, Kumarakom and Kollam in three days. This one does the opposite. It uses Kochi as an arrival point, then moves slowly south through the Vembanad lake system, with time to walk, eat and get lost. It assumes you have a week, but the core is five days.

Day 1: Kochi, on foot

Arrive at Kochi and stay in Fort Kochi. Walk the waterfront at sunrise the next morning, see the fishing nets being worked, then wander the lanes towards Mattancherry. Eat fish at a small restaurant rather than the waterfront strip. Do not hire a car for this; the old town is best on foot.

Day 2: Fort Kochi to Kumarakom

Drive south to Kumarakom, about 85 km and two hours. Stay somewhere on the lake, not in Kottayam town. Spend the afternoon on the water in a small canoe, not a houseboat, and eat dinner at your homestay. The bird sanctuary is best at dawn, so save it for the morning.

Day 3: Birds, then Alappuzha

Visit the sanctuary early with a guide and binoculars. After breakfast, drive to Alappuzha, about an hour. Do not board a houseboat immediately. Instead, walk the canal streets, see the lighthouse and eat at a toddy shop with a local guide. Spend the night in a small hotel in town.

Day 4: The houseboat, but shorter

Take a day cruise or a single night on a small houseboat. The big boats follow a standard route and moor in convoy; a smaller boat can take the narrow canals. Ask to go towards Kainakary and the paddy fields. Confirm life jackets, the route, meal times and whether the generator runs at night.

Day 5: A village, then the coast

Disembark and drive to Marari, a quiet fishing beach 30 minutes away. Spend the afternoon walking and eating. If you have a sixth day, continue to Varkala or Kollam. If not, return to Kochi airport, which is about two hours by road.

Destination in this story

BackwatersKumarakomKottayam

Destination in this story

BeachMarari BeachAlappuzha