Cherai: beach on one side, backwater on the other

Cherai is a village on Vypin, the long island that shelters Kochi's harbour from the sea. The beach runs along the western edge, a broad band of sand with a line of palms and fishing hamlets behind it. On the eastern side of the same narrow strip is the backwater, so you can watch the sun rise over one body of water and set over another without going far.

That geography is the appeal. Cherai is not a resort enclave; it is a suburb of Kochi that happens to have a beach, and on weekends it fills with families from the city. The result is a relaxed, slightly chaotic seaside with a strong local food culture and far less tourist infrastructure than Kovalam or Varkala.

The beach itself

The sand is dark and firm, the water warm, and the shore break can be strong, especially during the monsoon. There are lifeguard arrangements in some seasons and none in others, and the currents around the river mouths are not to be underestimated. Ask locally before swimming, stay within sight of other people and do not treat a calm-looking surface as a guarantee.

The beach is long enough to walk for an hour without repeating yourself. Towards the northern end it becomes quieter and the fishing activity more visible; towards the south it merges into the busier village strip. Early morning and late afternoon are the civilized hours. The middle of the day is for shade, lunch and the backwater side.

The backwater side

Cross the narrow road behind the beach and you are in a different landscape: a chain of paddy fields, canals and coconut gardens, worked by small boats. This is the northern end of the Vembanad system, not the wide lake of Kumarakom, and the scale is intimate. A short boat ride or a walk along the bund is a good counterpoint to the sea.

Cherai is also close to Pallipuram Fort, a small Portuguese-built fortification dating from the early sixteenth century. It is modest — a squat, laterite structure rather than a castle — but it is one of the oldest surviving European forts in India and the view over the water is pleasant. Combine it with the beach rather than making a separate trip.

Getting there and eating

Vypin is connected to Ernakulam by road bridges, so a taxi or bus from the city takes roughly an hour depending on traffic. There are also ferries from the Ernakulam waterfront, which are slower but far more interesting. Once on the island, local buses and autos run along the beach road.

The food is one of the reasons to come. Small restaurants serve fish curry, fried fish, prawns and the usual Kerala breakfasts; the further you are from the main beach car park, the better the value tends to be. Ask what came in that morning and expect the answer to depend on the boats, not the menu.

• Go on a weekday if you can; weekends and public holidays are busy with day-trippers.
• Carry cash for small shops, parking and boat rides.
• Bring reef-safe sun protection and a hat; shade on the sand is limited.
• Do not swim near the river mouths or after heavy rain.
• If you take a backwater boat, agree the route, duration and price before boarding.